Understanding Architect Language

We know that the world of Architecture is full of some confusing jargon. So, we wrote this jargon buster to help clarify a few of the terms your architect may use. We hope that you find it helpful! Please do let us know if there’s anything you think should be added. Email [email protected].

Air admittance valve (AAV): Commonly called Durgo valves, air admittance valves are designed to decrease the number of pipes that need to penetrate the roof and walls of a property. They reduce the number of parts required to ventilate soil and waste removal systems and do not compromise the performance or either. These valves essentially let trap seals within the system work correctly and effectively by creating negative air pressure in the system.

Articulation: creating interest to a large or uninteresting surface by adding windows, alternative materials, features, etc.

Approved Documents: a set of documents providing guidance on how to meet the requirements of the Building Regulations

Boundary: An imaginary line that marks the limits of two adjacent pieces of real property. The line is generally, but not necessarily, marked or indicated on the surface of the land by a wall, fence, ditch or another object.

Building Envelope: the walls, floors, roofs, windows, and doors

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB): An area with statutory national landscape designation, the primary purpose of which is to conserve and enhance natural beauty. Together with National Parks, AONB represents the nation’s finest landscapes. AONB are designated by the Countryside Agency.

Axonometric projection: A three-dimensional drawing to combine the plan and elevations. The accurate plan is drawn at a convenient angle and verticals from suitable points create the elevations. All horizontal and vertical dimensions are to scale, but diagonals and curves on a vertical plane are distorted. The result is similar to a perspective.

Best Value (Value for Money): The value that is represented by considering quality and lifetime costs, rather than construction costs alone. Central and local government clients are charged with obtaining best value for their construction projects, as for all other aspects of government, rather than seeking lowest price.

Bill of quantities: A list of the costs – usually a contract document – which is calculated by a quantity surveyor (see below) from the architect’s drawings and specifications using a ‘standard method of measurement’. If planned works are changed they are re-measured to calculate the change in cost.

Building Information Modeling (BIM) software: Building Information Modeling (BIM) is an intelligent 3D model-based process that gives architecture, engineering, and construction (AEC) professionals the insight and tools to more efficiently plan, design, construct, and manage buildings and infrastructure.

Brief: Description of what a client wants to include in the project and how the finished building is to perform. Different terms are used in different guidance documents. The brief develops in complexity from a simple statement of need and/or a vision, through an outline or strategic brief, to a detailed, quantified brief for design. See Detailed design brief, Outline brief, Strategic brief, Statement of need/requirements, Project brief, Vision.

Building inspector: The person responsible for inspecting building projects on site to ensure that all building regulations are being met. Normally an officer in the local authority.

Building Regulations: statutory standards for design and construction of buildings which ensure minimum standards for health, safety, welfare, energy efficiency, sustainability, etc.

Building Surveyor: A surveyor trained in building construction, law and sometimes costing. Often leads the design team for alterations to an existing building.

Cable Capping: Thin metal or plastic channelling sometimes used to contain electrical cables when fixed to a wall. This capping makes it easy to run multiple cables together.

CAD [Computer-aided Design]: drawings and design produced on a computer rather than by hand

CDM [Construction (Design and Management) Regulations]: a set of regulations for managing the health, safety and welfare of construction projects

Change of Use: A change in the way that land or buildings are used (see Use Classes Order). Planning permission is usually necessary in order to change from one ‘use class’ to another.

Character: A term relating to Conservation Areas or Listed Buildings, but also to the appearance of any rural or urban location in terms of its landscape or the layout of streets and open spaces, often giving places their own distinct identity.

Cladding: Where the mortar used to join bricks or stone of a building begins to degrade, repointing renews the exposed mortar. This reseals the building from the elements. The remaining old mortar is usually chipped away first.

Conservation Area: Areas of special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance.

Context: the features, both natural and manmade, surrounding a building or site

Contingency: Provision of time or money for unforeseen problems arising during the construction project. The money set aside should relate to the degree of risk, and be part of a formal risk management approach. Risk and
uncertainty and can be reduced as the project proceeds.

Density: In the case of residential development, a measurement of either the number of habitable rooms per hectare or the number of dwellings per hectare.

DPC [Damp Proof Course]: a ribbon of plastic that stop moisture moving from one part of a building to another.

DPM [Damp Proof Membrane]: the sheet of plastic that separates the building from the ground and prevents damp getting in

Detail: The technical construction specifications you will see on your plans.

Economic impact: The effect a project has on the local economy. An increasingly important factor in achieving a successful project. Specialist input should be sought when a business case requires the prediction of economic impact and regeneration benefits.

Elevations: drawings showing what each external face of a building looks like

Energy efficiency: The quest to reduce the amount of fuel required to heat, cool, light and run a building, compared to standard consumption.

Façade: exterior wall of a building, which is usually, but not always, the front

Fascia: Part of the face or elevation of a building, where the shop or occupier’s name is usually displayed.

Fenestration: openings in the walls and roof, including windows, doors, roof lights, etc.

Feasibility study: A review carried out objectively and early in the process to check whether a set of proposals is likely to fulfil the organisation’s objectives and whether the chosen site is suitable for the intended building. It is not a fundraising document.

FFL [Finished Floor Level]: the top of the floor that you walk on

Flood Risk Assessment: An assessment of the likelihood of flooding in a particular area so that development needs and mitigation measures can be carefully considered.

Gable: A peaked, usually triangular, portion of wall at the end of a double pitched roof. The terms ‘gable wall’ and ‘gable end’ mean the entire external wall.

Habitable rooms: Any room used or intended to be used for sleeping, cooking, living or eating purposes. Enclosed spaces such as bath or toilet facilities, service rooms, corridors, laundries, hallways, utility rooms or similar spaces are excluded from this definition.

Handover: The moment at which responsibility for the completed building, including insurance and management, is passed from the contractor to the client. A full check is needed to ensure that everything promised under the contract has been fulfilled.

Herringbone pattern: The pattern of bricks, wood or tiles where they are arranged like the bones of a fish. See the image below of herringbone wood flooring at Beamish Museum.

Infill Plot: Infill plots are in an urban or village setting and are a gap in the street scene.

Insulation: materials used to stop heat escaping (thermal insulation) or the transfer of noise (acoustic insulation)

Jettying: In timber-framed homes, a jetty is a projection of an upper storey beyond the storey below to maximise the available space in buildings without increasing the footprint. Using a cantilever, the system is made by the beams and joists of the lower storey oversailing to support the wall above.

Latent defects: These are building defects that appear after completion. They are covered by Limitation Acts, which state a time limit after which claims cannot be brought for errors in the design and construction. If, during this period, the client can prove that the design or construction team is responsible for any defect, they will normally be liable for losses suffered by the client as a result.

Legibility: The ease of understanding a building and knowing how to find one’s way around and use it.

Lintel: a beam that is used over a door or a window to create the opening

Massing: the shape, form and size of a building

Mixed use: Provision of a mix of complementary uses, such as residential, community and leisure uses, on a site or within a particular area.

Orientation: the positioning of a building or parts (Eg. windows) in relation to the sun, wind, etc.

Original house: The term \’original house\’ means the house as it was first built or as it stood on 1 July 1948 (if it was built before that date). Although you may not have built an extension to the house, a previous owner may have done so.

OS Plan [Ordnance Survey Plan]: a plan produce by the Ordnance Survey mapping company which shows buildings in relation to their surroundings – roads, paths, other buildings, etc.

Outline planning permission/consent: Outline permission can be sought for a building before detailed designs have been proposed, based on an outline scheme. Normally full planning permission is sought after discussion to determine the likely acceptability of the project. See Planning permission below.

Party Wall: a shared wall between two adjoining buildings

PD [Permitted Development]: what you can build without planning permission

Planning permission: Permission that must be obtained from the local authority before construction starts on most projects. It controls the proposed use, how much of the site is covered, the size of the building, site access, external landscape and parking and conformity with existing local plans. If permission is not granted, an appeal may be heard by a public enquiry and determined by a planning inspector. The Secretary of State for the Environment makes the final decision.

Quantity surveyor (QS): A specialist in all aspects of the costs of construction, providing information on the likely cost of a project at every stage including cash flow. The QS can also advise on the form of contract, procurement routes, suitable contractors, inflationary allowances and the need to make contingencies in the cost model.

Rainwater Downpipe: A rainwater downpipe is a pipe that is used to direct rainwater away from a building, typically from roof guttering to a drainage system. It is sometimes also referred to as a downspout, drainspout, roof drain pipe or leader.

Render: The coating applied to the exterior of a home to protect the building from weathering. Render can be simply decorative.

Revit: Autodesk Revit is Building Information Modeling (BIM) software for Microsoft Windows, which allows the user to design with parametric modelling and drafting elements. We use this state of the art software to design and develop your project. It enables us to show you 3D models of how your project will look.

RWP [Rain Water Pipe]: the pipes that take rain water from the roof to the sewer

RSJ [Rolled Steel Joist]: a beam, usually ‘I’ shaped

Scale: the size of a building in relationship to another building or its surroundings

Section: drawing based on a vertical cut through the building

Setback: distance a building is set back from a street or from an adjacent part of the same building

Site Plan: A plan of your whole site, including surrounding land.

Snagging: the process of identifying and fixing defects prior to project completion. The responsibility for remedying these normally lies primarily with the contractor. The project timetable should always allow time for snagging before move-in. However, some items, such as air handling systems, can only be fully tested after running through all seasons of the year.

Soil vent pipe: this commonly runs vertically from the underground drainage system to the top of a property, just above roof gutter level. It is also known as a soil stack pipe, a drain waste vent or a ventilated discharge pipe.

Statutory Applications: applications required by law in relation to building projects. Eg. Planning and Building Regulations

Structural calculations: A structural calculations report provides a full outline of design and build work to be carried out. It is minutely detailed and will include such information on how the foundations are to be dug, materials required, structural works, supporting walls, measurements, beams, joists, rafters, load bearings and concrete reinforcement or steel connection calculations. The report will be created by a qualified structural engineer. Where required, this report will ensure that our design meets to correct safety standards.

Structural engineer: Engineer specialising in the design of building structures. Decisions about the type of structure are integral to the design and should be taken with the architect. The engineer is responsible for ensuring that the structure has the appropriate strength and flexibility.

Structural Opening: opening in the wall of a building, often for a door or window

Surveyor: a surveyor measures and maps out various aspects of land and buildings, for example in relation to dimensions, costs and construction.

Sustainable materials: resources that will not be exhausted. For example, timber from renewable forests is sustainable, while that from slow-growing tropical hardwoods is not. Sustainability is a concept that good design is expected to incorporate, reducing waste, promoting whole life value and a healthy environment

Tender process: this is the process of inviting organisations to submit a proposal, with costs, to carry out a piece of work. It covers the preliminary invitation to tender, formal invitation to tender and the actual form of tender.

U-Value: a measurement of how good walls, roofs, walls and windows are at stopping heat escaping from a building

Value management/Value engineering: A formalised approach to managing a project through its whole life that seeks best value for money. Multi-disciplinary workshops can be organised to determine whether better value solutions are possible within the constraints of the brief and the project.

Variation: a statement of the costs associated with changes to the contracted works.

Vernacular: design that is based on identifiable local materials, styles and traditions

Weatherboarding: A type of cladding which is usually made from timber – sometimes UPVC – which is laid with an overlap to prevent damp.

Whole life costs: The full cost of all the parts that go to make up a building, including initial capital costs, replacement costs, maintenance and repair costs. Sometimes referred to as life cycle costs.

Whole life value: Value of an asset when its whole life costs are considered. Sustainability is an important aspect of whole life value.

The Team @ Acre Design hope that you have found this architect’s jargon buster useful! Please check out or latest projects if you’d like to see what we’re made of. Our Instagram, Pinterest and Facebook pages are all brimming with extension, loft conversion and self-build inspiration too!

Wastewater Heat Recovery System

Thankfully, as a country we are becoming more and more environmentally conscious. As we know, it is critical to protect the environment so as to reduce the destruction of eco-systems. It is more of a moral obligation for humans to protect the environment from pollution and other activities that lead to environmental degradation.

Excitingly, lots of manufacturers now produce approved equipment that effectively recovers heat from your hot water before it runs away down your drain. This saves us both energy and money – a winning combination. None of us want to waste money. Certainly, most of us do not want to waste energy and will look for ways to be ‘greener’ wherever possible. When we take a bath or shower or use appliances such as dishwashers or washing machines, the hot water waste simple goes down our drain.

How does the system work?

A heat exchanger pipe is used inside the the waste water pipe. The heat eaxchanger pipe has cold water running through it. This could be installed under the shower tray, for example. Inside the heat exchanger pipe, the cold water will collect some of the heat from the waste warm water. This warmed up water then takes less energy to heat than it would had it been heated from cold. Your preheated water can be sent to your hot water cylinder, or it can be sent directly to the cold water feed on your mixer tap.

The devices are typically around 60% efficient, so they convert 60% of the potential energy in the waste water back into heat for the incoming water. This can save you money on your bills, especially if you use a lot of hot water in your home.

If your system is being used for bath water or for your washing machine or dishwasher, the process is a little different. In this instance, a storage vessel is required to hold the the warm water until the cold water runs through it to collect the heat. Though these systems can be less efficient than the exchanger pipe system, it will still have an impact. Unfortunately, they can often take up a bit of room (storing the waste water) too.

How is it installed?

Most wastewater heat recovery (WWHR) units are about 80mm thick, one metre long and simply look like thick pipes. Suiting an upstairs bathroom, they plumb in vertically. Alternatively, Showersave produce horizontal units which are suited to ground floor showers as they sit inside the shower tray and capture the warm water as it enters the drain. Installing a WWHR in your shower is a great place to start as the you generally have a pretty consistent stream of waste warm water.

What’s the cost?

At a cost of upwards of around £400 plus installation costs, they’re not the cheapest bits of kit. However, these systems have no running maintenance costs. The impact on your energy bill won’t be gigantic, however, the impact using less energy will have on our environment is important. In an average household, you could expect to save around £20-30 a year on your energy bill. Of course, if you use a lot of hot water, it can begin to look a lot more attractive. For hotels or other businesses that use an awful lot of hot water, it could be a great investment too.

Is it worth retrofitting one of these?

If you are not building a new extension or self-build and not renovating your bathroom or kitchen, is it worth retrofitting this equipment in your home anyway? In some cases retrofitting may be possible, but the bulk and length of the recovery device means that most showers or baths wouldn’t be suitable. It is much easier to get it installed when you are fitting a new bathroom.

Interesting fact: Most people believe having a shower is more energy efficient than having a bath. However, an eight minute power shower uses 136 litres of water, whereas the average bath uses just 80 litres in comparison.

The Team @ Acre Design hope we have given you some food for thought! Please check out or latest projects if you’d like to see more of what we’re made of. Our Instagram, Pinterest and Facebook pages are all brimming with extension, loft conversion and self-build inspiration too!

Please contact us if you would like to arrange a free design consultation

How to choose the right fireplace for your home extension

Why do we love a fireplace?

More and more of our clients are opting for a striking fireplace or hearth. Our post on inspiring design ideas discusses the idea of Hygee. If you haven’t already read about the Danish idea of Hygge (pronounced “hoo-ga”), get reading. What freedom is to Americans, Hygge is to the Danes. The idea of Hygge is about finding joy in simple, cosy things. These things include: candles, blankets, fireplaces and so on. There is even a word for that favourite pair of jogging bottoms that you would only wear in the comfort of your own home – “Hyggebusker”. To us, a crackling fire is the epitome of cosy calm. Our busy lives can impact on our health, so planning spaces which invigorate and recharge us both mentally and physically is important.

With so many styles and fuel options to choose from, how do you know which to pick?

Firstly, the fireplace needs to be suitable for your property. Secondly, you need to decide upon its primary function – heat, aesthetics. Or do you need both of these needs to be met?

Fuel

Wood burners and open-flame fires will, of course, require a chimney or flue. Wood burners are very efficient and are currently very fashionable. Obviously, real fires will require some level of maintenance (cleaning out etc.) but some even have built in boilers enabling you to heat your water and radiators too! Check with your local council before getting your heart set on a real fire. Some areas are smoke-controlled and burning wood and coal is not permitted.

You can find information on Newcastle Council’s smoke-control policy here. If you are in North Tyneside, have a look here, for Northumberland council, it’s here and for Geteshead, it’s here.

Modern fires are often gas-fuelled and you can find flueless options. Bioethanol fires have very low emissions and don’t require a chimney or flue, however, they can be exceptionally expensive to run! Bioethanol is considered one of the greener fuels. With so many realistic-looking electric options out there, they are a good option too. However, it is questionable whether an electric fire has the same relaxing, stress-busting effect as a real, burning fire. For a fuss-free real flame, a gas fire is your best bet, as an open-basket gas-burning fire with ceramic “coals” is virtually indistinguishable from a real coal-burning fire. It’s a relatively simple task to run a pipe to the fireplace opening. However, this will need to be installed by a CORGI-registered fitter.

Appearance

It is important to love your fire when it is both active and inactive. During the summer months, will it still be beautiful to look at when putting it on or lighting it would make your home hotter than hell? With more contemporary designs, we find that they can look a little odd when unlit. Think empty fish tank with some coals in the bottom.

Traditional fires tend to suit most spaces and Architectural salvage and reclamation yards may offer the best chance of finding something appropriate. We have found that traditional designs in light-coloured stones such as limestone and marble are very popular at the moment. If modern styles are more your thing, they offer flexibility of scale and proportion. Whether the fire is gas, gel or electric, contemporary surrounds use sleek and minimalist modern materials. Glass or polished steel and lots of other materials are easily available. A hole-in-the-wall design does away with the hearth completely, and often the surround, too. These fires are usually gas, and can consist of a burner providing a regimented row of flames, a firebowl, or a pile of driftwood or pebbles. Hole-in-the-wall designs are often more suitable if you have a smaller room, where floor space is limited.

The size of your fire surround is important – too large and it will overpower your room but too small and it will look insignificant and lost. If you are renovating or altering rather than building a new space, the size of the existing opening, chimney breast and flue will influence the size of fire and surround that will be suitable for the room. If possible, it may be worth considering structural alterations to get exactly what you want.

Chim chiminey, chim chiminey, chim chim cher-ee

If you are fitting a fire, getting your chimney swept and assessed is very important. When renovating an existing property and using the current chimney, you’ll need to ensure you choose a suitable fire. However, if you are extending or building a new-build home, you have a lot more flexibility. It is worth bearing in mind that a chimney must be at least 4.5 meters tall.

If there’s no flue in your home or design, or even no fireplace opening, there are still some electric and gel models that can create an interesting focal point in the room. There is a choice of flue-less gas fires available too, where the waste gases are taken out of the room via a pipe that is ducted through an outside wall.

Look at our recent projects in Newcastle and the surrounding areas for further inspiration! Get in touch with the Team @ Acre Design to arrange a free, no obligation consultation at your home!

While you’re mulling over all of the fabulous fireplace options out there, here’s a nice warming fireplace video…

https://youtu.be/UgHKb_7884

What do the updated Permitted Development Rights mean for you and your extension plans?

Permitted Development explained

Permitted Development Rights are policies which effectively give homeowners more freedom to enlarge their home, with pre-approved planning permission being granted. Within these rules, you can extend your property (within certain perimeters), without needing full planning permission. Obtaining planning permission can be a long process for some and can delay the start of your build at a time when you may be keen to get going.

These rights do not usually apply to larger extensions, larger loft conversions or where your property may be protected (in a conservation area for example). It is worth engaging with a local architect early on in your project as they will be able to advise you on work that may be considered as ‘permitted development’ and therefore, not need planning permission.

The Team @ Acre Design are used to navigating these policies. Alistair Crerar, Managing Director of Acre Design, also has over ten years of experience in Building Control. Importantly, Alistair is well equipped to advise on the legal requirements when building your home extension. The Planning Portal also has some useful information on its website and the Government’s general planning permission advice site can also be helpful.

How will I know if my single storey extension idea qualifies for Permitted Development Rights?

To gain the additional allowance for extensions under Permitted Development Rights, your plans must extend no more than 8 metres (for a detached home) or 6 metres (for other types of house) from the rear elevation of your home. This applies to how your home was positioned on 1st July 1948. This means that if yourself or a previous owner has already extended your home, your permitted development rights may already have been used.

If you aren’t sure, Acre Design can advise you on this. You can also visit your local authority’s planning permission website to view any applications made in connection with your address. The relevant information is freely available to the public.

Other rules which apply when utilising Permitted Development Rights:

You cannot build upon more than half of the land around the original house.
Your extension must be a maximum of 4 metres high, from the highest point of natural ground. However, this does reduce to 3 metres if your extension will be within 2 metres of a boundary.
You must use materials which are in keeping with the existing house.
Additions such as: verandas, chimneys and balconies are not included.
Rights are restricted if your home is in a conservation area, national park, area of outstanding natural beauty, world heritage site or The Suffolk or Norfolk Broads.

Different types of rights

Class A: Extensions (single storey rear), Class B: Additions to the roof. E.g. rear dormers, hip-to-gable extensions, Class C: Roof alterations (other), Class D: Porches, Class E: Buildings (such as outbuildings), Class F: Hard surfaces, Class G: Chimneys and flues and Class H: Microwave antennas.

Neighbourhood Consultation

The Larger Home Extension Scheme calls to approval process for extensions in this category a Neighbourhood Consultation Scheme. Once your architect has finalised your plans, your local authority will notify your neighbours. They will ask them to make any objections to your house extension within 21 days. If there are no complaints and your build complies with the relevant regulations, you should be about 42 days away from the approvals you need to start constructing you home extension. Although it is unlikely if you work with a reputable architect, such as Acre Design, an application may (rarely) be refused. You can appeal to this decision but may need to alter your plans.

Lawful Development Certificates

On paper, if a proposal meets the criteria for Permitted Development no Lawful Development application should be required. However, it is still advised that you apply for the Certificate of Lawful Development to make sure your design meets all of the required standards. This essentially covers your back, should you be faced with any difficulties post construction. In essence, going through this small process ensures that your building work does meet the requirements of Permitted Development and fully complies. A better safe than sorry approach!

Choosing Acre Design to guide you through your extension design process…

All of these policies and regulations may seem a little daunting. That\’s why Acre Design are here to help. We submit all applications on your behalf, meaning we can deal with any technical questions which may arise. We simply inform you upon the success of your application! This removes any stress from this part of the process from our clients. At your free initial consultation, we will be able to advise you on the feasibility of your project.

Even where planning permission is not required, detailed plans are vital. They will save you time and money.

We hope that you find this information helpful, at Acre Design Newcastle we are passionate about all things Architecture and design. We would love to discuss your project with you in detail!

Take a look at our recent projects for further inspiration! Get in touch to arrange a free, no obligation consultation at your home!

Extension Design: Lighting

Pendant lights add a lovely, stylish finish to a room. We often see them places elegantly over dining tables or kitchen islands in the extensions we design. There is good reason for this – they look great! Whether you decide to make a statement with your lighting or subtly complement your colour scheme, there is a pendant lighting style for everyone’s taste. If your budget is IKEA or a high end designer supplier such as Chaplins, there are some beautiful options available. However, it is important to ensure your proportions are correct. Our 3D modelling software makes it easy to understand the dimensions of your project (whether it’s a self-build, extension or loft conversion) and build your interior design scheme. Ask your architect about this if you are not confident about the size of your spaces.

Tynemouth Extension, Newcastle, Acre Design

Choosing a pendant light that is too big may overwhelm the space and a smaller option may end up looking lost.

Sizing up:

Width of pendant: If you add the length and width of your room together and then divide this number by 12, it will give you an ideal pendant width for your space. For example, if your room measures in at 3m by 5mm, added together this makes 8m. 8m divided by 12 = approximately 67cm wide. If you are thinking of opting for a multiple pendant light, you can simply divide this by the number of pendants you’d like. So, using our example, a three pendant piece should measure in at around 22cm per shade.

Height (or drop length) of your pendant light: Firstly, multiply the floor to ceiling height of your space by 3. For example, a room that is 3m high would equal 9m. Next, divide this measurement by 12 to give the ideal height of your pendant light. Our example would therefore need a drop of 75cm to suit the space.

How low can you go? Can you go down low?

Ensuring you have adequate clearance for your furniture and family, these rules are helpful:

Where people may walk underneath your light, allow 2.13m from the floor to the bottom of your pendant. If you’d like to place your pendant above a dining table or kitchen island for example, allow around 71cm to 91cm from the bottom of the fitting to the top of the surface. For a hallway, your pendant should be at least 15cm higher than the top of your front door, unless you have a very large amount of floor space of course.

Choosing the right style

There are so many different styles of pendant lighting, so it’s wise to begin by considering the function of your lights. Thinking about the type of illumination you want for the space will also depend on the other light sources in the room. A room with large windows or bi-fold doors will need less illumination for daytime use, however you may also require task lighting in certain areas and ambient lighting in others.

Types of lighting

There are four basic forms of lighting: task, ambient, accent and decorative.

Task lights are functional, helping you to see clearly whilst working (chopping, writing etc.) If your pendant lighting will help illuminate tasks such as children completing homework, reading or chopping food, you want a fixture that aims light downwards, preferably with an open bottom. Open bottom fixtures can create too harsh a light if paired with powerful bulbs, so bulb choice is also important. If the light proves too severe, you can always swap in a lower output bulb or install a dimmer to adapt to the use of the space and time of day.

General lighting which gently illuminates a whole space is called ambient lighting. A softer, ambient fitting will create a nice intimate mood for socialising.

If you want to highlight a design feature such as an art piece or an interesting building material, you could use accent lighting. Typically, accent lighting will be a picture light, however you can target your pendant lighting if you want to draw attention to the material of your worktop or table for example by having it closer to the surface or with a brighter bulb.

For simply adding a bit of sparkle and interest, decorative lighting is effective. These do not usually cast targeted light or serve any particular purpose other than to add to the feel or mood of the room.

We hope that you find this information helpful, at Acre Design Newcastle we are passionate about all things lighting and would love to discuss your project with you in detail.

Take a look at our recent projects for further inspiration! Get in touch to arrange a free, no obligation consultation at your home!

14 Inspiring Self-Build or Extension Design Ideas

We love designing self-builds, who are we kidding… we love designing full stop. But, if you are lucky enough to be able to build your dream home from scratch, it doesn’t get much more exciting.

Developing a detailed brief with your architect is an essential stage of your build process; communicating your needs and having these understood is paramount! You get to decide how your house will look, perform and function. You are in control of the budget.

Putting extra thought into the small details will make your new home truly exceptional. We love working with clients to help their dreams come to life, so we’ve put together some inspirational self-build design ides to get your creative juices flowing.

#1 How about a sunken bath?

Now, we LOVE a nice freestanding roll-top bath or a trendy ‘egg’ shaped bath. However, there’s something about incorporating a sunken bath into your self-build or home renovation design that gives off such an exquisitely opulent, organised feel. When the lighting is right, your bath can become a real treasure in your home. It doesn’t take much designing in and this element could really make your home stand out from the rest. Imagine stepping down into a large, warm bath, filled by a generous waterfall tap… heaven.

#2 Timber cladding, inside!

With the rise in popularity of the ‘Scandi’ design style, earthy, natural feeling spaces are so fashionable. What’s more, they just make you FEEL so good. The warmth, texture and colour brought by wood cladding is so refreshing. Another good thing about interior timber cladding is it can fit a traditional or a modern taste pallet. Talk to your architect about how best to incorporate internal wood finishes, it may sound trivial but when it is planned well, it can look incredible!

#3 Not just a kitchen island…

Installing a kitchen island has become a bit of a must when designing a kitchen. We love the idea of getting creative with your island. Making your kitchen island a focal point will create a real stand out space for entertaining. Huge, sweeping designs can also add masses of storage! Have a look at our pinterest boards for further kitchen inspiration.

#4 Booze, glorious booze!

Displaying your collection of wines, spirits or beers has become a very fashionable, and, we have to admit, satisfying thing to do. Loads of our clients are designing wine fridges or racks into their kitchens. If you have the luxury of the space and it’s something that floats your boat, why not think about making a feature of your collection? We’ve designed wine storage to meet traditional tastes as well as crisp, modern looks and we have loved all of them.

#5 Hidden ceiling lighting

Adding some secret, hidden LED lighting is a fantastic way to soften a space and create a warm, inviting, homely feel. This can also be a nice opportunity to add some colour to your interior design scheme too! Thinking about this at this stage allows you to incorporate crevices for lighting in your build, making it much easier and cheaper to install.

#6 Wood storage

Like most of our clients and us, you probably love the romantic idea of a wood burner. They are becoming more and more popular and for good reason: they are good for the soul! If you haven’t already read about the Danish idea of Hygge (pronounced “hoo-ga”), get reading. What freedom is to Americans, Hygge is to the Danes. The idea of Hygge is about finding joy in simple, cosy things such as: candles, blankets, fireplaces and so on. There is even a word for that favourite pair of jogging bottoms that you would only wear in the comfort of your own home – “Hyggebusker”. To us, a crackling fire surrounded by neatly organised wood piles is the epitome of cosy calm. Thinking about incorporating wood storage into the design of your home takes it from a pile to a beautiful feature.

#7 Pocket doors? What are they?

Pocket doors are a stylish space saving solution. They slide effortlessly into your wall, removing the space reduction and layout limitations of an opening door. Plus, we think they look pretty stylish. You’ll need to think about having your architect design these in as the adjacent wall will need a cavity for the door to slide into and you’ll need to avoid any plumbing and wiring.

#8 Non-standard doorways

Pocket doors could be really effective with a non-standard doorway. Thinking outside the box on door openings could create a truly exceptional space. A standard door opening is great but imagine one that mimics the angles and lines of your roof or windows. Or perhaps a curved opening could add a softer touch to your design?

#9 Stylish storage

If, like us, you love everything to have a place; it is well worth considering your built-in storage early on in your design process. When building a new extension or self-build home, you have the perfect opportunity to create storage that is perfect for your belongings. You could make an inventory of any bulky items or things you have a lot of (shoes for example) and then think about where they would be used and how you could create a stylish storage solution within your design.

#10 Relaxing window seats, with a view…

The window seat always adds a traditional, peaceful, elegant touch. We’ve incorporated a lot of these into our extension designs recently. A window seat can turn your open-plan lounge/kitchen/diner into a tranquil haven for you and your family. Incorporating one or more of these in your self-build project can add a special space for you to sit, reflect and deeply enjoy the space that you have created. If you love your garden, can you imagine anything more satisfying than sitting on a rainy day and looking out onto your hard work? See our post on window choices to add some even more exciting dimensions to this idea!

#11 Marvellous mezzanines

Our team get a little excited if a client mentions the word ‘mezzanine’. There is something beautifully dramatic about creating a grand, yet practical split space. Utilising a mezzanine floor as your office, play or relaxation space means that you can incorporate a vaulted ceiling without feeling overpowered by the enormous space. When you incorporate a high-volume ceiling, this also gives you the opportunity to use giant, invigorating windows. Winner!

#12 Work with nature

If you are building a self-build project or adding an extension, looking at the natural make-up of the plot is vital. Trees and other natural elements don’t have to be a hindrance. Try working alongside your architect to use these elements as starting points for your design. Obviously, careful consideration and planning needs to go in to designs around trees; roots can require engineered and creative solutions!

#13 A sheltered outdoor space

By continuing an interior wall to the outside of your home, you can break down boundaries between the garden and your home. In Newcastle and the North East, also adding a covered area for shelter from the elements is great common sense too. If you incorporate bifold or sliding doors/windows, these outside spaces can make your new space feel gigantic.

#14 Outdoor fireplace

If you love relaxing outdoors but are realistically pessimistic about the amount of time you can spend doing this in Newcastle, an outdoor fireplace might be for you. Chimeneas and firepits are readily available in DIY stores, however an integrated fireplace outdoors would make an incredible centrepiece for entertaining or relaxing after a long day. You could even ensure that the fire was visible from both inside and out.

Your home extension project: Choosing the right windows

Lots of our clients ask us about glazing and how to make the right choices. Whether you are working with an architect to build a new build house, convert your loft, add space with a single or two storey extension or create a sunroom/orangery; window choices can often make or break an architectural design.

Windows are also a big part of your build budget, so we understand that getting it right is vital! Large windows often take centre stage in the facades of modern design, which means that energy efficiency and thermal performance needs serious consideration. Research is key. Acre Design are Newcastle’s leading architectural designers and we are here to help!

Inspiration in the North East and Newcastle

We don’t have to look far from our front doors to find some exceptional examples of stunning, efficient and innovative glazing solutions:

The Sill, National Landscape Discovery Centre in Hexham, Northumberland is a purpose build visitor centre which promotes the local landscapes. The glazing meets the highest standards of sustainability (a focus of the project) whilst standing strong against the unpredictable and harsh elements in the area. With The Sage (Gateshead), The Baltic, Newcastle City Library and The Centre for Life (Newcastle) also leading the way with innovative glazing solutions, we really are spoilt for inspiration here, in Newcastle.

Which is the right window style for your home?

Room layouts and the shape of your house itself will greatly inform the positioning and size of windows, unless you are designing a self-build home of course. Whether you are building a new build, extension or loft conversion, we always consider the style of the property when presenting glazing solutions. For example, an old cottage would not suit extra large glazing forced into thick stone walls. However, a contemporary, single-storey home would be improved by this style of window. This is where the classical architecture idea of the golden ratio is a helpful tool. The ratio proportions should be 1:1:618, meaning a vertical sash window, for example, should be 1300mm tall if it is 800mm wide.

What about different window styles?

Fixed windows do not open or let in ventilation, their function is to let in natural light and maximise views from your property. Without the need for an opening mechanism, these windows come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and you can get really creative with them. We love to use these in stairways in particular, providing light and decoration in an otherwise often wasted space.

Another option, useful for kitchen design and extensions, if the fixed and operable splashback window. Much like the glass or tiles you can fix behind a surface such as a sink or cooker, you can also have splashbacks that double as a window. They come in two forms: fixed or operable. These showcase your views, invite natural light in and provide extra ventilation (if operable of course). These are perfect for dimly lit kitchen spaces and they are practical, stylish and modern.

Now, if you love bringing the outside in to your garden but do not have the floorspace for bifold doors, bifold windows could be a viable and satisfying option. Allowing you to open the window entirely, they are refreshing, modern and very stylish.

Rooflights or skylights bring so much natural light to a new space where a conventional window just wouldn’t fit. There are so many options to choose from here, depending on your taste and the style of your property. Flat glass rooflights are modern and minimalistic, with a low-profile flat glass plane. They are unobtrusive but provide a great deal of natural light. Polycarbonate domes also provide a lot of natural light and are a great low-cost solution. We’ve used roof lanterns and pyramids in many of our orangeries and extensions – they are large and beautifully decorative, creating a contemporary and open feel to your space. Sliding rooflights are a nice ventilation option. If you’re considering incorporating a balcony above, walk-on rooflights are completely safe to walk on. This means that you can utilise the roof space of your new extension with a balcony above. For awkwardly shaped spaces, we love suntubes – they let in an incredible amount of light and are becoming very popular here, in Newcastle.
Sash windows are often a beautiful, traditional addition to a new build home and are an essential factor if you are renovating a Georgian or Victorian home – a popular housing style in Newcastle Upon Tyne. They come in non-standard sizes and are often bespoke for each project. We love the feeling of lifting a sash window to feel fresh air rush into a room.

Another traditional British option, also very common in Newcastle, are open-out casements, which come in a range of forms. Large casements are often the cheapest and these are usually standard sizing so a lot cheaper to source and fit. These are great for ventilation, opening really wide. However, if you have a young family or animals in your home, you need to think about safety catches for this reason.

If you love the Continental style, tilt and turn windows might be for you! This style of window opens inwards and provides a tilt option for secure ventilation. Often, these windows suit a more modern design and they are great for a smaller room.

How about triple glazing?

Triple glazed windows are the new standard in today’s windows. They are great for noise reduction and energy efficiency. Some suppliers can even offer special coatings to allow solar gain when required – utilising the sun’s heat when it is wanted in the winter but minimising overheating in the summer. We have found this is near-essential on elevations receiving a lot of direct sunlight, but you may not need to spend the money here on elevations where sunlight is rarely directed.

Traditional style homes

Choosing appropriate materials is vital if you’re building a period style self-build home or renovating your older style home. Timber window casements and sash windows are the usual choices for these styles. PVCu is a great choice but replicating a traditional wood grain finish is pretty tricky. It can be quite the challenge to find the perfect period style windows, so we recommend starting your research as soon as possible. Acre Design can help with this.

Contemporary homes

The size of windows we use has grown rapidly over time as glazing methods evolved and larger panes became affordable. A minimal amount of frame is very desirable in contemporary builds, with aluminium frames rising in popularity. We often find, the more modern the house or extension, the bigger and cleaner the glazing should be.

Which material should I choose?

Alloy, metal or fibreglass windows are really popular in contemporary-style houses, though they are not as thermally efficient as wood. GRP (fibreglass) can create a strong load-bearing frame, which is great when you are renovating or extending, and these come in a huge range of colours! This style is really low maintenance and allows for a very small frame around the glazing if this is desired. Though this is an expensive option, the aesthetic rewards are huge.

PVCu or plastic windows are a quick and easy option, whilst being low-maintenance and cost efficient!

A main advantage of timber windows is the authentic feel offered to period style homes. You just can’t replicate the feel of timber windows. They may require a little more maintenance and will be more expensive than other options however, so it is a decision worth taking some time over.

Using composite windows is a great compromise solution if you are undecided. This style mixes framing materials, usually weather-proof capping (aluminium or plastic) over a timber frame. These are great for longevity and withstanding harsher weather and are a low maintenance option which also provides the insulation pros of timber. These can be a pricey choice, so again, a great deal of thought and research is recommended.

We hope that you find this information helpful, at Acre Design Newcastle we are passionate about all things glazing and would love to discuss your project with you in detail.

Take a look at our recent projects for further inspiration! Get in touch to arrange a free, no obligation consultation at your home!

Purchasing a Property to Build and Extension and Renovate for Profit or for a Home

Are you thinking of purchasing a property to extend?

If you are on the hunt for your dream home but can’t seem to find it, Acre Design are here to help with some helpful information and things to look out for! Perhaps your property search has only yielded houses in the right location but these houses are too small, in the wrong location or simply not within budget? Here, we have a few tips which could help you gauge the potential of a property which is in the perfect location but which may be a little smaller than you had hoped for. We also offer a FREE, no obligation consultation; where we can meet you at the property to discuss the possibilities!

Purchasing a smaller home with potential for an extension

If you need a larger home to accommodate your family, or want to get on the property ladder; considering buying a smaller, cheaper home with a view to building an extension is a really sensible choice. Loads of properties have the potential to extend or have their existing features (lofts/attics, basements or garages) converted into extra living space.

Going through this process, rather than maxing out your budget on a larger house, could save you lots of cash, whilst putting you in charge of the design and quality of the build. You are in a position to create (along with your architect) a home designed specifically for your family’s needs. Pretty exciting, right?

Not enough bedrooms but the perfect location? Don’t worry, there’s loads of options out there to extend!

Here are some basics to look out for:

If you think you might want to build a loft conversion, measure the head height of the existing space; you’ll need at least 2.6 meters to convert. Garage conversions will need about 2.5 meters width to add an extra bedroom to the home – think about fitting in a double bed with room to walk around it as a minimum guide. However, a smaller space could still be converted to create a larger kitchen, dining and living space if it is in the right position. If the property has a decent sized garden space, you are usually allowed to convert/build on half of the garden space, so a rear or side extension would be a fantastic option to add space. If you aren’t sure the property has the space, we would be more than happy to advise you on this.

What else can I investigate?

So you’ve found a property in the ideal location, with the right transport links, but the house itself doesn’t quite fit the bill. How can you test the feasibility of extending the property prior to purchase?

Here are some steps you could take:

Contact the local council for pre-planning application advice. There may be information on historic planning applications and whether they were successful or not. The planning officer may be able to give you an idea of how successful any application would be.
Take a look at the surrounding properties – if any what building works have they had? This can be a good indicator of what is permitted in the area.
Research whether the house is: a listed building, has conservation area status or is in a townscape merit area.
Get some expert pre-purchase advice. A good architectural practice will be able to advise you on the type of extension suitable for the property and discuss any relevant possibilities or limitations. We offer a FREE, no obligation consultation.

Found a house you love, but only with an extension?

You might have already found a home you know you could transform into your dream house… Should you make an offer without being certain you will get planning permission? In theory, you can make an offer on a house which depends upon planning permission being granted, before you exchange contracts and seal the deal. However, as most local councils aim to determine planning application decisions within eight weeks, this can be off-putting for the seller if they are keen to move quickly. If the property has been on the market for some time or the seller is not in a rush to move, you may find a seller willing to embark on such a deal. It is probably best to seek expert advice from an architectural designer, such as Acre Design prior to making an offer.

Further to this, not all extensions or alterations will need planning permission (Acre Design would be able to advise you of this). Some projects may not need planning permission because of what are called “permitted development” rights.

Usually, planning permission will not be required as long as:

no more than half the area of land around the original house is covered by the extension or other buildings;
the extension isn’t at the front of the house or facing a highway;
the extension isn’t higher than the highest part of the roof;
a single-storey rear extension doesn’t extend beyond the rear wall of the original house by more than 3m (attached house) or by 4m (detached house);
a single-storey rear extension is less than 4m high;
two-storey extensions are no closer than 7m to the rear boundary
two-story extensions don’t extend beyond the rear wall of the original house by more than 3m;
materials used for the extension and roof pitch of extensions higher than one storey are similar to the existing house;
there aren’t any verandas, balconies or raised platforms;
maximum eaves heights are complied with; and
upper-floor, side-facing windows are obscure-glazed and any opening to be 1.7m above the floor.

You may not need planning permission in some instances, however you would need to send a “notification of a proposed larger home extension” to the local authority. It is definitely worth checking with the local council before putting an offer in on a house though. Local authorities can remove permitted development rights in some areas. Also, stricter rules may apply if your property falls within designated land (ie, conservation areas, national parks and the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and World Heritage Sites) and Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Don’t worry, this is something Acre Design would be able to advise on at your FREE consultation.

For more detailed, have a look at the notes produced by the Department for Communities and Local Government: Permitted development rights for householders: technical guidance.

Think you’ve found your home but not ready to put an offer in until you know what is possible? Get in touch with Acre Design today and we’ll happily meet you at the property to have a look and discuss the potential of the property. We offer FREE, no obligation consultations in and around Newcastle!

Overheating of Homes…a sticky situation

The use of large amounts of glass when extending your home is something that almost all
of our customers are desperate to have, and understandably so!

Any house looks luxurious with bespoke bi-fold doors spanning up to 6 metres, or with sliders you get unobstructed panes up to 3 metres for a single pane, the perfect addition to your new dream home. The more glass in your extension you have, the more light will flood in, and happier you and your family will be in your new extension right? Well yes, but there are also some other considerations to bear in mind when deciding that you simply must have an entire wall as glass,
or every window is to be from the floor to the ceiling. A big consideration when designing buildings is that buildings ability to maintain a steady internal temperature throughout the year in this, lets be honest, fairly changeable climate we have to deal with on the fair isle.

Heat in… Heat out!

Glass just isn’t as good as an insulated wall for keeping the heat in, and is absolutely terrible at keeping the heat out in the summer, in fact, it does the opposite! I am sure most of us have walked into a conservatory that has been left to heat up on summer day? When you walk in, the heat hits you like walking into a furnace! Similarly that same conservatory is a no go area in winter when it is just impossible to heat up without seeing a marked increase in Januarys gas bill.

Focus on insulation

Keeping homes cool in the summer is not the focus of the building regulations, they are focusing on insulation and keeping the homes warm in the winter, but with global warming and the subsequent warmer summers, homes being built closer together (thank you very much the planning department), poor temperature controls and ore airtight buildings overheating can be as big a problem!

By definition a building suffers from overheating when the temperature becomes uncomfortable for occupants within a building. Increased humidity can also exacerbate the issue. It therefore must be a consideration when specifying large pieces of glass in any extension, or the orientation of that glass when designing new build housing.

Tricks for blocking the sun

In the UK the Zenith of the sun moves between 62 degrees in summer and 12 degrees in winter, meaning that specially designed shading like larger soffits, or brise soleil might be used to keep the sunshine out during the summer, but let it in during the winter. Another clever trick is to use deciduous trees positioned to block the sun in the summer period but will let light through in winter. Internal blinds can also help, with different glazing also an option to block out the worst of the sun’s rays. It is not just windows that let the heat in. The heat from the sun is defined as radiant heat and when it strikes a solid object it is absorbed and reemitted at a different frequency, as conductive or convective heat. Designers really therefore need to look at the types of wall and roof construction as much of this is only designed to stop the transfer of conductive or convective heat and allows the radiant heat to pass right through into the home. The use of multiple layers of different insulations, air gaps and ventilation
should be considered at the design stage.

Thermal Mass

With the growth of lightweight building systems like timber frame, SIPS panels and pre-insulated shuttered formwork the heat that enters the building quickly heats up only the air without any large amounts of mass (in this instance called thermal mass) to absorb the heat during period of high temperature, and then release that heat during the cooler evenings and night time. It takes around 4 times more energy to heat up a solid that to heat the air, and so including some thermal mass in the building (a concrete floor, granite work tops, masonry chimney breast or even just some denser plasterboard) the tops can be knocked off the peaks during the summer months.

If the property does get too warm, the best way to cool it is through cross ventilation with cooler air. One window is not enough as the air needs to pass from one opening through anther, this is easily achieved on a detached property, but often it is important to think about how to ‘bring in the breeze’ especially on terrace or semidetached property like we have here in the North East. All considerations we take into account for our clients, to make sure they get the dream home that they deserve, on budget and on time.